Towers and Tiggers

The first time I came to Italy I landed directly into Florence.  I didn’t understand how easy it was to get around by train and I knew it was the primary city I wanted to see.  So I landed there in case I couldn’t figure things out.

I had done a little bit of research.  I landed at the airport.  I knew I needed to get on a metro train.  Ride it to the end of the line, Santa Maria Novella station.  I had been told cell service would be easy to get.  Just look for a Vodaphone office “they are everywhere.”  Well the first two steps went really well.  The last one, the one that would have given me data to view a map to the address of my BnB?  Well, that one didn’t work at all.  In bigger cities Vodaphone has offices right at the train stations but not at the Firenze airport or at the metro stations.  So I had no service.

Not to worry, I noticed there was a visitor’s info place right where I got off the metro.  I thought, perfect!  I can get some help there!  So I walked in the front door.  Immediately a woman behind the desk was yelling at me in Italian!  Finally, realizing my uncomprehending look, she switched to english and told me to go outside and get a mask on before coming back in.   Remember this was February of 2022.  Italy took masks and mask requirements much more seriously than America did.  …What a coincidence, they had one of the best outcomes once those were in place.

I got my mask on and re-entered but the woman still wasn’t too happy with me.  I had committed an unrecoverable faux pas.  I gave her the address I was looking for and she drew a five block circle on a map that had only a few streets labelled.  Then told me what I was looking for was somewhere in there and didn’t specifically tell me to get out, but I knew our conversation was over.  She told me to start asking people once I got inside the circle.

It was a rough start.  I didn’t yet own the travel suitcase I have now.  Everything was in a heavy duffle bag.  It was a much longer distance walking there than expected.  I was all alone in a foreign country, and really all alone in life.  A country where I didn’t speak the language.  Walking toward a piazza with the hopes of confessing to a total stranger I was lost.  As far as life low points go, I was thinking this was neck and neck for second place.  

But it all worked out eventually.  I wandered around the place and did ask a bunch of people.  The trouble was the street I needed was only about 180m long and so nobody really recognized the name of it.  Finally someone thought they did and told me to reverse my present course.  That got me closer and finally I figured out where the street signs were (up high on the buildings) and though it took a couple of hours from the time the metro dropped me I found my first airbnb all on my own.  I guess that was one of those momentum building successes.

This year I walked through that same piazza five times.  Each time knowing exactly where I was going.  I thought back to the knife edge my life was balanced on.  How much my understanding of this country has changed.  Traveling is not the same as vacationing.  A vacation can involve laying on a beach.  Traveling is work, and movement, disaster and recovery.  The ability to roll with whatever situation confronts you, adapt and stay on course.  I know which of those two I like.

This year’s trip was a bit different than previous years. I am easily entertained just walking around. Between the architecture and people watching I am pretty satisfied. This trip has taken me inside museums, the royal palace, the leather making school.  

From Firenze we made a day trip to Pisa to see the tower.  I have heard it described as a city with one design error photo-op.  Truth to a degree.  It is an industrial city with not a lot of spectacular architecture.  Close to the river there is a tiny cathedral which had actually been moved into its current position.  That had to have been an interesting job.  The church is said to contain one of the thorns crowning Jesus at the crucifixion.  A dubious story but it was enough to sponsor the building of a church I guess.  

I walked away from Pisa satisfied.  I love a good reveal and it was that.  Walking from the train station you can’t see the tower until rounding the final corner.  Suddenly there it is right in front of you.  Seeing these iconic places you have seen pictures of your entire life still triggers my sense of wonder.  My sense of, oh my god, I am really here.  I like it when that happens.  

I also had a good meal.  We knew we had to get away from the tourist trap of the tower and about a fifteen minute walk away we found Trattoria da Stelio.  I had a great spaghetti aglio olio with some very spicy peppericinis and a glass of vino rosso for five euro fifty.  

My favorite place to eat lunch in Firenze is the pasta stand on the first floor of  the Central Market.  I think I ate there every day I was in town.  It is interesting, they have a selection of about six different pastas and six different sauces.  Tell them what combination you want, pay, and they hand you a number.  About five minutes later they call your number and you get your pasta.  Getting there just before noon is a much better idea than just after.  I have seen ~30 people in line sometimes.  Buy your pasta and take it upstairs where they have seating.  In this area they do  have table service, but don’t do it unless you want wine for dessert.  The service is slow.   Walk right up to the bar, plate in hand, and order it directly.  Then take it to a table. If you are a couple it works even better, send the advance team up after ordering your pasta. 

For dinner I have a suggestion mostly for the food but also for the experience.  Go to Ristorante Pensavo Peggio on via del Moro 51.  We nicknamed the owner “Tigger” for obvious reasons you will understand once you get there.  His wife was the chef, he worked alone and somehow managed 20 tables spread across two floors.  He spoke almost no english, was a fount of energy and super, super friendly.  I had a tagliatelle that was cooked perfectly and tasted fantastic.  Of course the bread was disappointing because it is north of Rome but the rest of the food was very good.  Even the bruschetta, was good enough to make it the best we found north of Rome.  We were so impressed with his care and attention we actually left four euro as a tip.  This is a rare thing to do in Italy. Only my second time in three years. 

The creme brulee with a thick layer
of burnt sugar on the top.

Breaking away from my traditional order of tiramisu, at Pensavo they have creme brûlée.  Not the best I have had, but not a common dessert in Italy. It was nice to have something a little different.  A few minutes after we ordered it I said, “do you smell that?” we could smell the torching of the sugar on top.  That was fun. I almost felt a sous chef moment.   

Leaving, the owner asked if we wanted to join him in a shot of limoncello or grappa.  As a matter of fact we were honored to.  It did leave me wondering if he does that with every guest.  Maybe that is where all the energy comes from!  It was a lovely, friendly, Firenze experience.