Mountain Time

Back to solo traveling I left Ischia by ferry, then train, bus and private car to my next destination, Castelmezzano.  Part of the mix of what I do when I travel is a combination of old favorites and new places.  This was really a dartboard throw.  I wanted a smaller town in the center of the country where I could see some mountains.  So I pulled up the AirBnB, map view, and zoomed into where I knew the mountains to be.  I picked third from the cheapest, in a town I had never heard of.  A couple of days later I was on my way.

Again this was one of the opportunities I really enjoy from traveling.  The owner of the BnB picked me up at the bus station in Potenza about thirty minutes away.  Then I got the wonderful experience of a guided tour the last half hour of the trip.  He was able to enjoy my gasp of pleasure as we rounded the last corner and town was laid out before us.  This beautiful village on the slopes of the southern Italian Dolomites sits perched on the edge.  Unfortunately I arrived during a rainy spell.  During my work week it was sunny and beautiful.  The weekend, when I had time, the rain was nearly constant.  I carry a rain poncho with but there was a degree of laziness as well.  It was nice to get some introvert recharge time.

I did get one really nice hike about half way to the neighboring town.  I might have been able to make it the whole way but being a flatlander it is difficult for me to guess when it is going to get dark when there are mountains around.  So though I might have been able to make it, at least part of the walk back could have been in the dark.  I wasn’t sure I wanted to risk it.  The last bit was a tunnel that was dark enough and creepy enough even in daylight.  I read Stephen King’s _The Stand_ and the tunnel part of the story was in the front of my mind.

One local attraction I am glad I didn’t have to decide if I had the courage for was three of the cities run a zip lines between them.  The lines cross over the valleys and my host told me the sensation is of flying.  I think that would be totally cool if I could have done it, but I am not positive I could have.  Better for me it was closed.

My host also told me the previous summer he had hosted a writer in his BnB who was working on a novel, so I thought maybe there was enough "real writer" vibes for me to soak up a few.  The jury is still out on that.

The problem with small town Italy during the off season is eating.  Five days a week in this town there are two restaurants open.  A fairly expensive (by Italian standards) hotel restaurant and a pizza place.  On the weekends, Saturday & Sunday (differing from the American standard of Friday & Saturday) there were two other restaurants that opened up.  But two nights, if you hadn’t planned ahead, you are going to go hungry.  I was closer to that end of the spectrum.  I had a quarter bag of peanuts, a bag of wheat crackers and half a loaf of bread.  Not the most balanced of diets but I didn’t starve.

I had lunch at the more expensive place (Hotel Dolomiti, via Michele Volini, 19) and found it to be entirely unremarkable.  The pizza restaurant (Pizzeria Rosticceria, via Roma, 10) was interesting and served a good pizza.  Walk in one side, where you order and take away pizzas but if you want to stay, then the woman takes you across the street to a room a few steps below street level that has five tables.  There she will bring you your wine and once it is ready your pizza.  I was surprised, the pizza was sliced.  Maybe because she immediately identified me as American?  Cut pizza is a rare thing

There have have been so many “best in my life” meals here in Italy.  Maybe you tire of hearing of them, but it was another occasion.  When I arrived my host was pointing out places to eat and places to avoid.  One of the places was only open one night and I am so glad I ate there.  It was an odd place. 

Signage was very minimal, just a hand written menu taped to the door usually closed. But one night as I walked by that door was open. No sign inside either but some stairs going up.  I still have trouble getting used to the eating hours in Italy.  I tend to go out about seven forty five even though I know they only have opened at seven thirty.  It still, even after I have lived this life, throws me when I walk into a place at this time and find it empty. In America I would assume they are closing, not just opening. 

It is hard to make assumptions of what the relationships are of all the parties.  Here is how I read the situation.  There was an old man who acted very much like the father.  There was a shy young man who seemed quite put upon and chased around by the old man.  That sure screamed son to me.  Then half way through my first glass of wine an early thirties no-nonsense woman arrived. Older sister perhaps, or an unrelated employee? There was some unhappiness directed to her as well. To me, that unhappiness looked like “You’re late.  …Again” but she ignored it completely and just went about her job.

Even if I read the relationship wrong it was amusing to watch.  The old man walked around with a smile to the customers and a look of frustration to the son.  Resignation to the daughter.  He came up and spoke cheerily and earnestly to me, shaking my hand and speaking in Italian.  I have no idea what he said but I know he meant it.

Just what affiliation there was to Knights Templar I do not know.  I didn’t even realize they are an organization that still exists until I got a new neighbor a few years ago who moved from Washington to my small town.  He had come from a highfalutin government position and told me he was a member.  One time after a few drinks I asked him if they still guard the holy grail. He told me it was a pity I hadn’t asked the previous week.  It had been his turn to watch it and it had been sitting in his garage.

The meal was great from the beginning.  I had a small complimentary appetizer they brought out that was very tasty.  I didn’t get a picture of it.  I had a pasta with  a local type of large dried pepper which was very good as well.  The pepper was not particularly hot but had a really nice flavor.  But the real star of the show was the tiramisu.  It was the best I have ever had in my life.  Perfect!  Not soggy at all.  Not too much espresso.  Plenty of chocolate over the top.   I loved it!  They were happy when I asked for a glass of grappa at the end and poured me a tall.    I ate at the other places as well but far and away this was the best meal I had in Castelmezzano.

The AirBnB I was perhaps not the most convenient, but certainly the most interesting place I have stayed at.  It was carved into solid rock and was almost cave-like in the bedroom.  Not surprisingly it was very, very quiet.  The only inconvenience was the bathroom was outside the apartment.  Late night trips were accomplished by stepping outside into the hallway which was visible to the street below, then up a few steps into the bathroom.  Luckily no passerby was startled to see a naked man at 3am.